A. Margaine L'Extra-Brut

Villers-Marmery is one of the more intriguing villages of the Montagne de Reims. In a region often associated with Pinot Noir, its vineyards have a strong Chardonnay identity. That is the setting for A. Margaine L’Extra-Brut, a Blanc de Blancs whose appeal lies in a clearly defined origin and an intentionally modest dosage. The current release is made entirely from Chardonnay, with a 2021 base and a 3 g/L dosage. Oak also plays a part, accounting for a stated 30% component. These are useful details for a buyer: the wine is not simply another dry Champagne, but a particular interpretation of the village’s signature grape. Extra Brut does not have to mean austere; it signals a measured finishing choice, leaving the balance of the finished wine to speak for itself. The family behind the bottle has long-standing roots in Villers-Marmery. Arnaud and Mathilde Margaine now run the estate, which reports around ten hectares across 48 parcels. Approximately nine-tenths of the vineyard area is Chardonnay. Those figures help explain the confidence with which the producer places the grape at the centre of its range, rather than presenting Blanc de Blancs as an occasional alternative to a more conventional blend. L’Extra-Brut is a rewarding comparison with the producer’s Le Brut. Both offer a route into the domaine’s personality, but the lower dosage and single-variety identity of L’Extra-Brut give it a particularly focused brief. If reserve-led complexity is your chief interest, La Cuvée M is the more obvious next stop; if you want to understand the Chardonnay of Villers-Marmery first, this bottle makes a persuasive starting point. Serve it with simple, carefully prepared food: roast chicken, a delicate cheese tart or grilled vegetables with a light dressing. It also belongs in a tasting of Montagne de Reims Champagnes that challenges the assumption that the area must always be about Pinot Noir. For those who enjoy grower Champagne, A. Margaine L’Extra-Brut offers a satisfying combination of place, grape and thoughtful cellar decisions. Its merit is not spectacle but a clearly articulated idea of what Chardonnay can represent on this particular part of the Montagne de Reims.