Christian Gosset Sorangeon 2020

Christian Gosset Sorangeon 2020 is an especially compelling Champagne for anyone interested in the differences between a grower's individual vineyard sites. It comes from an east-facing lieu-dit in Chouilly Grand Cru, planted to Chardonnay in 1963 on chalk soils. Entirely Chardonnay, barrel fermented and matured for 36 months on lees, this 2020 vintage is finished Brut Nature, with no dosage. Those details give Sorangeon an unusually precise identity. The Chouilly origin, mature vines and chalk setting place the vineyard firmly in the foreground, while barrel fermentation and extended lees ageing describe the deliberate work that follows in the cellar. Without a final sweetening dosage, the wine is presented with its underlying structure intact. It is a bottle to approach with attention, rather than a set of assumed tasting notes. Christian Gosset's independent project began in 2015 after some 35 years spent working alongside his brother at Gosset-Brabant. His first harvest followed in 2016, and the domaine is based in Aÿ-Champagne. The vineyards cover roughly five hectares, with Aÿ Pinot Noir forming much of the estate's identity and Chardonnay from Chouilly offering an important counterpoint. This is why Sorangeon occupies such an interesting position in the range. The A-series wines bring together Aÿ Pinot Noir and Chouilly Chardonnay, while Loiselu, Les Pierres Robert and Croix-Courcelles investigate named Aÿ parcels. Sorangeon moves the focus entirely to Chardonnay and Chouilly, creating a clear contrast in grape, place and dosage. Serve it in a generous tulip-shaped glass, allowing some time for the Champagne to develop after pouring. A delicate mushroom dish, roast poultry or a savoury cheese tart would make thoughtful companions at the table. For the enthusiast who values specificity, Christian Gosset Sorangeon 2020 offers a remarkably clear proposition: Chardonnay from one chalk-rich Grand Cru parcel, vines planted in 1963, barrel fermentation, three years on lees and a Brut Nature finish.